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الجمعة 8 مايو 2009

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From A Father To A Doctor


Dr Shakshuka

There is no secret to Dr Shakshuka’s recipies – just Libyan cooking

Source : BBC at :
http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/middle_east/8032339.stm

FROM A FATHER TO A DOCTOR

After spending the late morning with Father Pawlowski, I stumbled across Dr Shakshuka, on the fringes of the flea market, in Jaffa.

I ordered the cheap, but laughably misnamed "business lunch".

Within moments of my choice, the waiter descended on my table with eight dishes.

There were four types of meat, the sort that appears to have been cooked for a day at a low, slow heat, then given a massage, then sent on holiday, and only when it has become at one with its surrounding ingredients and is so relaxed that it falls off the bone at the mere approach of your fork, is it then ready to be served.

All the dishes (bar the bed of couscous) went some way to explain why fat is such a good convection agent for flavour.

The good doctor's real name is Bino Gabso. His place has been serving shakshuka (a breakfast dish of eggs poached in a spicy tomato sauce) and utterly un-businesslike lunches for 17 years. Before him, his father also had an eatery in Jaffa. The family came to Israel in 1949, from Libya.

I was barely able to talk after lunch, even after a large, strong Arabic coffee, but I managed to croak the tired journalist's question: "Is there a secret?"

"No," Bino replied with fetching directness. "It is Libyan food. There is no secret. In Tripoli, people only have food. They have nothing else in their lives. They don't have music, anything. When they're at work, all they think about is food, and how they're going to make it when they finish work."

Many may take issue with Bino's reduction of Libyan life culture to a mess of lamb and beans. But one thing is certain. If you have business to conclude, do it before you order Dr Shakshuka's business lunch, not after.


فـرج


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